Sunday, October 18, 2015

Cumberland Island - Gem off the Georgia Coast

Cumberland island is the largest, southernmost barrier island off the Georgia coast. When we first discovered this island, we came by kayaks loaded with gear and food for a weekend of primitive camping. We had only 1 day to revisit this gem, so we arrived by ferry. So what makes this place so special?
Black-bellied Plover
First of all, close to 10,000 acres of this 36,000 acre island have been designated a wilderness under the Wilderness Act of 1964. This means you will not find crowds nor will you find restaurants and hotels along the pristine beaches. You have a chance of rediscovering solitude in nature.
After we stepped off the boat, we followed a path through a forest of Live Oaks covered with Spanish moss, Southern Magnolias, Cabbage Palms and Saw Palmettos. The thick canopy of trees was filled with birdsong.
After walking a couple of miles through majestic old trees, sand dunes covered with sea oats and wildflowers replaced the maritime forest.

Just before we arrived at endless miles of pristine beach, we watched a Snowy Egret fishing. He stood on one leg while rapidly scratching underwater with his other foot. The goal is to stir up something to eat. 
Being able to walk along an isolated, undeveloped beach is a rarity these days. What a gift for all of us who benefit by those who had the foresight to preserve places in their natural state!

It didn't take long to deduce the fishing was great offshore. Countless terns, gulls and pelicans flew by with beaks full of freshly caught fish while shrimpers were casting their nets in nearby waters.
During nesting season, Loggerhead Turtle come ashore at night to lay their eggs on these deserted beaches.
For thousands of years, the island has been inhabited by various people. The earliest inhabitants are thought to be the Timucuan. Today, the Carnegie family's presence can be seen by both restored mansions and the ruins of the Dungeness. An excellent book on the history of the island is  
Cumberland Island: Strong Women, Wild Horses by Charles Seabrook.

You never know what you might encounter as you turn the bend. We found both wild horses and native wild turkeys roaming the grounds around the ruins.
Not only is it migration for birds, it is time for the movement of butterflies. As we were walking back to the ferry at the end of the day, one butterfly after another fluttered by us. It was pretty spectacular to see so many orange wings crossing our path.
Our day quickly came to an end leaving us with special memories.

"Preserving wilderness shows restraint and humility and benefits coming generations those "still in the womb of time".
Theodore Roosevelt